To many Asians residing in Seoul, what we like about the city is that we can easily find a Korean dish resembles a home dish we grow up eating. (We’re all Asian anyway!) I get to eat Su-jae-bee here, which is exactly the Korean form of Mee-Hoon-Kueh or Ban-Mian at home. (And Chinese call them mian-geda 面疙瘩 too). Our culinary culture is, in fact, similar. Another fun fact I learn here is: the hot pepper flakes, an essential ingredient in making Kimchi and all the Korean spicy dishes only came to Korea in the 17th century. That means, long time ago, Korean lived without spicy hot pepper, even when they were making Kimchi. What I want to say here is, there are a lot more options.

UPDATE 2020: Duroomi is now permanently closed. 

The lotus leaf meal at Duroomi 두루미 키친 is one. It is a go-to place when you are sick of your typical Kimchi-land food. If you’re traveling with your folks, I am sure they’ll like it. (Tested and proven when my family came to visit.) Hidden in Samcheongdong, the restaurant serves contemporary Korean food using lotus leaves as the main ingredient. Their hot pot set lunch is perfect on a windy or snowy winter day, especially when you’ve exhausted your feet from exploring the neighborhood.

This bungalow-turn-restaurant is an establishment perfect for a family gathering and/or couple dining. It is truly inviting with its cosy, home-like atmosphere as if we were invited over to a friend’s house for a meal.

Meals here comes in a set. Each hot pots has a minimum order for two person but all sets come with refillable side dishes. You can choose to top up another KRW 5,000 for a lotus leaf steamed rice or porridge, or plain noodles to complete the meal. We selected the Chadulbaegi bosot jeongol 차돌박이 버섯전골 (beef brisket and mushroom hotpot) and a lotus leaf steamed rice each.

What I like about dining at Duroomi is: all of their side dishes taste like home cooking to me and I haven’t had a dish that wasn’t good. I especially love their Japchae (Korean Glass Noodles stir-fried with meat and vegetables) and  Bokkeum Kimchi (Stir fry Kimchi), two very common home dishes I used to eat at my Korean foster parents’ place during my language training days – comforting, soothing and filling.

Now here comes the lotus leaf glutinous rice, Yeonyip-bap 연잎밥 — another Korean version of the classic Chinese dim sum, the Loh-Mai-Gai. While the Chinese lotus leaf glutinous rice is rich in flavour and tends to be more greasy, the Yeonyip-bap has a muted earthy aroma of ginkgo nuts, chestnuts and red dates, with minimal seasoning.

A chorus of aroma hits my nose as I unwrap the lotus packet. The rice and fillings are cooked evenly, with a slight burnt at the sides. I love the chewy texture of the lotus aroma infused rice. The leafy nuance and fragrance not only pairs well with all the other banchan (side dishes), but also the Chadulbaegi hot pot.

Here come our Chadulbaegi, the beef brisket and mushroom hot pot. It was served together with a small jar of homemade lotus leaf powder to add to the soup for a stronger lotus leaf aroma. The mushrooms, veggies and beef were cooked to tender perfection while the soup is infused with the teasing aroma of the leaf – a perfect melding of flavours! A hot, comforting soup-y lunch in winter, you couldn’t have asked for more.

The meal comes with a cup of tea. While the folks were taking their rest, I went up to the 2nd floor of the restaurant and took some pictures of their tastefully decorated interior.

Writer’s Note: If you are travelling to Seoul in winter, be sure to bookmark the blog down as this could be your saviour when you’re sick of your typical Kimchi-land food (aye, I can feel you.) This is one of my go-to places in Samcheongdong during the colder season. If you have developed a hal-mae ipmat (할매 입맛, a taste for anything traditional, like a grandma’s taste), this is where you and your like-minded friends should totally visit.

Contact Details:

At Duroomi 두루미 키친
27-6 Samcheong-Dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul.
서울시 종로구 삼청동 27-6
Tel: +82-70-4063-2787

Directions:

1. Take any subway line to Anguk Station 안국역, take exit no.2
2. Once you come up from exit no. 2, walk straight for about 12M and locate a bus stop for maeul bus Jongno 02 (종로02 )

3. Take bus Jongno 02 (종로02) and alight 6 stops later at Gamsa-won (감사원 The Board of Audit and Inspection of Korea).

4. Cross the zebra crossing, and you’ll find yourself in front of Samcheongdong Post Office (삼청동 우체국). Follow my direction in the above picture, walk down to the direction where the blue arrow is pointing.

4. Continue to walk down the slope and you’ll find yourself passing Vietnam Embassy of Korea, then the University of North Korean Studies, at your left-hand side. Keep going down the road until you reach another junction. Then turn left.

5. Continue walking down and take note of an alley at your left-hand side. Turn into the small alley &  you’ll see the restaurant.

It looks quite complicated but if you follow my guide closely, you’ll be able to locate the Duroomi restaurant in about 5-10 minutes after alighting the bus.

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So how does my plan sound?

The restaurant that I am writing about today is located in a random back alley of Samcheongdong, a well-polished neighbourhood where traditional and modern met. Since it is buried in the small alleys off the main drag, it takes a little effort to reach, more even so if you don’t read, speak or understand the Korean Language. But I am sure if you can find your way to the restaurant, you’ll agree with me it is all worth the trouble. (Please check the end of the post for directions).

Entering the rustic Korean style main door, a cosy courtyard beckoning. I’ve heard too much about this place from my Korean friends and looking at the booked up restaurant at 630pm you know how popular they actually are. To avoid waiting, please be early or at least make a reservation.

The Interior of the hanok is adorned with Korean paintings and traditional Korean windows for a classic touch.

Regarding to their menu, other than the usual Korean dishes like dumplings soup and ordinary hansik (Korean dishes), this restaurant is famed for 3 dishes: Roasted Garlic with boiled pig trotters (마늘 로스팅 보쌈), Old Stone Age Beef Galbi (구석기 갈비) and Baby Squid (땡땡 쭈꾸미). Price varies depending on the serving size. It cost us KRW38,000 for medium-size beef ribs, usually fit for 2-3 person. Upsize will cost you KRW 48,000.

I am sure foodies in Korea are well aware of the popular food hunt programme “Tasty Road” by Olive TV, done by the Producers BC oppa and SJ oppa, and Director JK oppa that I met through another programme collaboration years back. I really love the show as they do have a couple of fairly good finds (usually hidden restaurants). Sexy Singer Uhm Jung-hwa and Actor Jang Dong-gun also visited this place back in spring 2014 (this year)!!

We didn’t wait too long for the food. Sides were served pretty fast, followed by the main dish:

The radish water kimchi (Mul-Kimchi) was a very satisfying dish with a cooling, slightly sour taste.

And then the main dish: Stone Age Beef Ribs. The stories behind the name?

The owner at Bugmaggol revealed that he was inspired by comic books about the old stone age where protagonists eat huge beef ribs without cutting them into smaller chunks. Holding the ribs in one hand and a makgeolli (Korean Traditional Rice Wine) bowl in another and eating like a stone age man boss, is an experience the Bugmaggol wants to provide.

Nicely coated in the sweet and peppery garlic sauce, these tender, juicy ribs are looking great in the spectacular visual presentation by the chef.

According to the owner, these huge ribs are from the “second cut” (or some might call it “blade end” cut) from a cow’s rib section. The restaurant only takes ribs from sections no. 6 through 8 to make this particular dish. Section 6-8 are ribs from the cow’s shoulder. They are known to have larger chunks of fat that make the meat really delish if the ribs are prepared properly.

We ordered a medium-sized galbi. That comes 3 pieces of ribs. It might look mini from the pictures. But it is actually very meaty and heavy. Although the ribs were cooked to a tender soft texture, it still took us some time to cut the beef into chunks simply because the portion is just CRAZY huge. *Cough* Now I need a shoulder massage before tucking in.

Here is another picture from their official Facebook page to show u how big the ribs are. These tender, juicy, succulent meat actually requires very little effort to pry from the bone. Certainly my type of ribs; D

The dish also comes with stew assorted vegetables. The chopped bell peppers, onion, zucchini and bokchoy add a sweet note to the dish. Yummmm….

One last picture to show the size of the ribs. Very clean bones explain the tenderness of the meat.

mmmm… I am definitely going back for more.

It is also good to pair up the ribs with the sweet and milky makgeolli (Traditional rice wine). We opted for the “country-style” makgeolli, which turned out to be surprisingly great. A good match with the ribs — what you’ll definitely need to wash down the greasiness from the fats.

On a side note, they serve excellent house kimchi. The typical sweet and spicy type that I adore most. We refilled it so many times that I lost my count.LOL.

My Verdict: Hands down. One of the best galbi available in Seoul. The chef totally nailed it. Though it was quite expensive (38,000 for one dish fit for 2), considering the taste, the portion and the “stone age” experience in a fancy Korean Traditional House, I think it is well worth the money. Excellent for friends gathering or entertaining important guests who visit Seoul. They have private dining rooms as well.

Contact Information:

Bugmaggol 북막골
30-2 Samcheong-dong, Jungno-gu.
중로구 삼청동 30-2
Tel: 02-730-0980

Operating Hours: 
Lunch: 11am-3pm
Break: 3pm-430pm
Dinner: 430pm-9pm

Directions:

1. Getting out from Anguk Station Line No. 3 Exit No. 1. Take the route on your right-hand side. (Facing the street and the exit at your back).
2. Go straight for about 10 minutes, you will pass by Olive Young drug store. Before you reach an alley, you will see Baek Sang Photography Studio. It is hard to miss it as there are huge family portraits and newborn baby portraits hanging at the windows of the studio. Continue walking straight.
3. By now you will find yourself walking on a path with a whole stretch of the stone wall at your right-hand side. Walk further down until you reach the MAIN road, then turn right into the main road.
4. Go straight. Locate Bob-ryun Temble (법련사) and Gallery Hyundai (갤러리현대), a building that looks like below:

There’ll be a bus stop in front of the Gallery Hyundai. Wait for Maeul Bus no. Jongno 11 “종로 11”  (minibus in green).
5. Alight the bus 4 stops later, at the Korea Institute of Finance Station (금융연수원 정류장 [Read: geum-yong-yon-su-won])
6. Continue to walk down the street with the Institute of Finance at your right-hand side, for another 100m.
7. You would see Bugmaggol’s signboard by now, just before Homestead Coffee.

8. Turn to your right into the alley beside Homestead Coffee. You’ll find yourself in a secluded area where you’ll see the only Korean Traditional housing: that’s Bugmaggol.

9. Get into their courtyard and check for the availability of the seats. The restaurant gets really crowded at the weekend, especially at dinner time.